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A
shipload of visitors arrived in the fjord overnight, so Ingibjorg
Gisladottir dressed like a Viking and headed out to work in the ruins
scattered along the northern edge of this tiny farming village.
Qassiarsuk is tiny (population: 56), remote, and short on amenities (no
store, public restrooms, or roads to the outside world), but some 3,000
visitors come here each year to see the remains of Brattahlid, the
medieval farming village founded here by Erik the Red around the year
985.
When
they arrive, Ms. Gisladottir, an employee of the museum, is there to
greet them in an authentic hooded smock and not-so-authentic rubber
boots. "There were more visitors this year than last," she says.
"People want to know what happened to the Norse."
The
Greenland Norse colonized North America 500 years before Christopher
Columbus "discovered" it, establishing farms in the sheltered fjords of
southern Greenland, exploring Labrador and the Canadian Arctic, and
setting up a short-lived outpost in Newfoundland. But by 1450, they were gone, posing one of history's most intriguing mysteries: What happened to the Greenland Norse?
There are
many theories: They were starved off by a cooling climate, wiped out by
pirates or Inuit hunters, or perhaps blended into Inuit society as
their own came unglued.
Now scientists are pretty sure they have the answer: They simply up and left.
"When the climate
deteriorated, and their way of life became more difficult, they did
what people have done throughout the ages: They looked for a more
opportune place to live," says Niels Lynnerup, a forensic
anthropologist at the University of Copenhagen in Denmark who studies
the Norse.
Climate change was clearly
driving the Norse, with their sheep- and cattle-farming traditions, to
the edge of survival. With the onset of the Little Ice Age (from 1300
to 1850), conditions deteriorated across the Norse lands, particularly
for people living on marginal farmland in Iceland, northern Norway, and
Greenland.
Today, Greenland is warming
up, with residents witnessing dramatic changes over the past five
years. Winter sea ice, which the indigenous Inuit people in north
Greenland traditionally relied on for sled dog transportation and seal
hunting, has stopped forming reliably and robustly. Meanwhile, farmers
in southerly communities like Qassiarsuk have enjoyed a markedly
expanded growing area and season. Potatoes, previously confined to the
far south, now grow as far north as the capital, Nuuk, 185 miles south
of the Arctic Circle.
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